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Pokhara
Mesmerizing mountains and luscious lakes

Pokhara is a resort city of remarkable beauty. The serenity of Phewa Lake and the magnificent summit of Machhapuchhre rising behind it create an ambiance of peace and magic. Clearly the most stunning of Pokhara’s sights is the spectacular panorama of the Annapurna Range which forms its backdrop. The Annapurna massif includes Annapurna I to IV and Annapurna South. Although the highest among them is Annapurna I (8,091 m), it is Machhapuchhre (6,977 m) which dominates all others in this area.

PLACES TO GO

Phewa Lake, roughly measuring 1.5 by 4 km, is the center of all attractions. The eastern shore, popularly known as Lakeside or Baidam, is the favorite home base for travelers and is where most of the hotels, restaurants and handicraft shops are located.

Barahi Temple. Built on an island in Phewa Lake, this two-storied pagoda is dedicated to the boar manifestation of Ajima, the protectress deity representing the female force.

World Peace Stupa, a massive Buddhist stupa, is situated on top of a hill on the southern shore of Phewa Lake.
Seti Gandaki. Flowing right through the city, the boisterous river runs completely underground at places. Mahendra Pul, a small bridge near the old Mission Hospital, provides a perfect view of the river’s dreadful rush and the deep gorge made by its powerful flow.

Devi’s Fall. Locally known as Patale Chhango, Devi’s Fall (also known as Devil’s, Devin’s or David’s) is an awesome waterfall lying about 2 km southwest of Pokhara airport. Legend has it that a trekker (Devin, David...) was washed away by the Pardi Khola and disappeared down into an underground passage beneath the fall.

Gupteswar Gupha is a sacred cave located across the road from Devi’s Fall. The fall’s cascading waters can be seen through a hole at the end of the cave. It has some big hall-size rooms and some passages. This cave holds special value for Hindus since a phallic symbol of Lord Shiva is preserved here.

Mahendra Gupha. This large limestone cave is locally known as the House of Bats, an apt name for it. A two-hour walk to the north of Pokhara, it is best to bring your own torch to see the stalactites and stalagmites, as well as the local winged residents.

The Old Bazaar. Pokhara’s traditional bazaar is colorful and so are its ethnically diverse traders. In its temples and monuments can be seen ties to the Newar architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. Located about 4 km from Lakeside.

Bindhyabasini Temple is the center of religious activity in the old bazaar. It is dedicated to Goddess Bhagawati, yet another manifestation of Shakti. The park-like grounds offer a fine picnic area. Devotees flock there on Saturdays and Tuesdays to offer sacrifices.

Begnas Lake and Rupa Lake are located about 15 km from Pokhara at the end of a road that turns north from the highway to Kathmandu. The lakes offer the perfect nature retreat because of their relative seclusion. Splendid boating and fishing opportunities can be had here.

MUSEUMS TO BROWSE

Pokhara Museum, located between the airport and Mahendra Pul, reflects the ethnic mosaic of western Nepal. The lifestyles and history of ethnic groups such as the Gurung, Thakali and the Tharu are displayed.

Annapurna Museum, also known as the Natural History Museum, is located at Prithvi Narayan Campus east of the old bazaar. It has an exceptional collection of butterflies, insects, birds and models of wildlife as well as samples of various precious and semi-precious stones and volcanic rocks.

Gurkha Memorial Museum at Pardi has on display uniforms and badges of Gurkha infantry regiments, Gurkha engineers, signals and transport regiments and the Gurkha Contingent of the Singapore Police Force. There are also historical photographs and medals (including the Victoria Cross) of Gurkha veterans - some dating back to the First World War.

International Mountain Museum, located at Rato Pairo, boasts historical documents, records and chronicles on mountaineering. The museum houses three main exhibition halls: Hall of the Great Himalaya, Hall of Fame and the Hall of World Mountains. It also houses a library, a prayer room called Lakhang and an audio-visual room.

THINGS TO DO

Boating. Sailing or paddle boating on Phewa Lake’s emerald expanse is something no visitor to Pokhara would like to miss.

Pony trekking. Pokhara provides a magnificent opportunity for sight-seeing on horseback. Some hotels keep ponies while others help you hire them.

Hiking destinations around Pokhara include Sarangkot (1,592 m), a former Kaski fort lying atop a hill 5 km west of the old bazaar; Kahundanda (1,520 m), to the northeast of Pokhara, which has a ruined fort on the summit as well as a view tower; and Ghachowk, a typical Gurung village and the site of one of the region’s oldest settlements, is a five-hour walk to the north of Pokhara. The ancient fort of Nuwakot, 15 km south of Devi’s Fall, is also ideal for savoring the splendors of nature. Naudanda is a five-hour walk and a favorite with those wishing to get away from it all.

Paragliding. Fly freely amongst the magnificent Himalaya with eagles and griffons to join you as you soar over lakes and villages. Sarangkot is the jumping off point for paragliders.

GENERAL INFO

• Pokhara (pop. 156,000) lies in a valley at an altitude of 900 m in central Nepal, 200 km to the west of    Kathmandu
• Getting there: There are daily flights (30 minutes) and bus services (5-6 hours) between Kathmandu and    Pokhara
• Local transport: Taxis and local buses
• Climate: Around 30 degrees Celsius in summer and 8 degrees in winter; June-September is rainy
• Accommodation: There are good hotels ranging from economy to world class

A dream comes true
The garden at Keshar Mahal
by Punam Mittal

Have you ever wondered what’s behind the towering wall just across the street from the Royal Palace at the entrance to Thamel? I see something written on those high brick walls - “Garden of Dreams”. My inquisitive self led me through the entrance gate to the garden.

The Garden of Dreams within the Keshar Mahal complex is a unique urban space in Kathmandu. But the garden had passed into obscurity and neglect for more than 30 years after the Keshar Mahal was converted into the Ministry of Education and Sports and the garden’s western half, too, was lost to the commercial development of Thamel.

After six years of extensive restoration, it has now become a public garden that attracts visitors to its gratifying ambiance.

At the main entrance is a water fountain - a serene welcome to all those visiting the garden. Another exciting design element in the reconstruction of the garden includes the double wall along the entrance side of the garden and a stepped waterfall in the narrow space between them. This space is not only aesthetically appealing, it also serves as a barrier to the noise from the busy street outside the wall.

Equally attractive is the huge central Lotus Pond adorned with water lilies, lotus and colorful fishes. Small ponds have been built at the foot of several sculptural and structural elements. These water elements - the fountains and the ponds - impart an aura of tranquility to the garden.

Even at the base of the newly created amphitheatre, in the gazebos to the east of the garden, is a narrow semi-circular pool, at the end of which two mirrors are used to convey a circular look to the pool. The amphitheatre is used for open-air cultural programs.

But the major attraction of the garden is its three grand neo-classical pavilions. Originally the garden incorporated six impressive pavilions, each dedicated to one of the six seasons in Nepal.

The garden’s east side houses the Basanta (spring) pavilion bearing designs of leaves, blocks, lines and borders. Its portico has a domed roof with designs of western musical instruments. On the outside wall in marble, is inscribed a verse by Omar Khayyam, “…Alas, that spring should vanish with the rose…” This plaque is said to be the only garden element that was damaged in the 1934 earthquake. The portico is flanked by sculptures of white elephants on its two sides.

Then you come to the Grishma (summer) pavilion. It is said that there is no right angle in this seemingly rectilinear pavilion, but it isn’t out of proportion. Down the path past lush trees is Barkha, the rain pavilion. A figure of a fierce lion-faced man above the entrance represents the god of rain and thunder.

Next to the Barkha pavilion, in Greek attire, is a statue of Goddess Laxmi. Originally conceived as Nike, the Greek Goddess of Victory, the statue was later remodeled and devoted to Laxmi. This explains the somewhat unusual style, dress and triumphant posture for the generally benign Hindu goddess. The lotus she carries in one hand and the coins spilling from the other hand are the symbols of Laxmi’s purity and divine kindness.

Two of these historical pavilions have now been converted to serve as a garden cafe and a lounge bar. The “Rotunda”, another pavilion from the garden’s lost portion, has been reconstructed as a new focal point at one end of its dominant axis. The garden hopes to sustain itself through admission fees, rent from the Basanta Cafe and Keshar Bar, as well as through cultural events and private functions to be held here.

Then comes the Asade Char Bagh, a garden of four trees known as Asade rukh (Legesthromea sp.) where flowers bloom in the month of Ashad (June-July). The specialty of this part of the garden is that the four trees bear flowers of four different colors - dark pink, pale pink, white and red.

Another rare feature of the garden is the grove of yellow bamboo which appears to be coated with yellow paint over a green base and hence its name, the Painted Bamboo (Poaceae). They undoubtedly add to the attraction of the garden. The garden is adorned with an abundance of other local and exotic flowers, shrubs and trees.

Within the garden is an exquisite ensemble of fountains, decorative garden furniture and European inspired features such as pergolas, balustrades, urns and birdhouses. The garden’s design has much in common with formal European gardens - paved perimeter paths, trellises, various planting areas and a maze of low and dense hedges which are obviously the result of dedicated artistic labor.

The garden was built in the early 1920’s by Keshar Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana, the son of the then Prime Minister Chandra Shumsher. Keshar Shumsher had visited England during Edward VII’s rule. Inspired by the gardens there, he had dreamt of building a similar garden in Kathmandu. Legend has it that he created his dream garden after winning a hundred thousand rupees in a game of cowrie with his father.

Keshar Shumsher was a remarkable man, and the garden he built is a reflection of his many talents and varied interests. A statesman, scholar, linguist and connoisseur of horticulture, art and literature, he was also well-traveled and well-read.

The Keshar Library within the Keshar Mahal complex constitutes his personal collection of books and bears testimony to a man of incredible interest and learning. The garden’s design is inextricably linked to the collection of books on gardening, architecture and literature in this splendid library.

The garden represents one of the most outstanding architectural examples of Nepal’s Rana period. It remains the most marvelous and creatively designed garden of its era and a cultural landmark of Kathmandu.

FACTFILE

• Location: Across the street from the Royal Palace at the entrance to Thamel along Tridevi Marg, opposite the    SAARC Secretariat.

• Area: Palace and garden area covers 24 acres (96,660 sq m), the garden spreads over 1.38 acres (5,583 sq    m)

• Builder: Field Marshall Keshar Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana in the early 1920’s

• Attractions: Neo-classical pavilions, fountains, decorative garden furniture, Asade Char Bagh, Chinese Moon    Gate, statue of Goddess Laxmi in Greek attire and other European inspired features such as pergolas,    balustrades, urns and birdhouses

• Restoration project: The one-million dollar project was funded by Austrian Development Aid in cooperation with    the Ministry of Education and Sports and Eco Himal, its executing INGO
• Entrance fee: Rs. 160, locals Rs. 80

Tamang Heritage Trail
Off the beaten trek

Among the many fascinating trekking trails in Nepal, the Tamang Heritage Trail offers new heights in exhilaration.
Set in the Langtang region in north central Nepal, the route presents a combination of stunning Himalayan views, historical and cultural heritage, and an experience of Tamang and Tibetan cultures.

The Tamang Heritage Trail is a newly developed walking trail. The starting point, Syaphrubesi, is a daylong (about 132 km) bus journey from Kathmandu to the north. The trek lasts eight days, and beginning at Syaphrubesi, the route passes through Goljung, Gatlang, Chilime, Tatopani, Rasuwagadhi and Briddim to end at Syaphrubesi.

The opportunities to see Tamang rituals, Tibetan culture, religious festivals, traditional architecture, exotic costumes and Syabru dances make this trail a unique experience. There is a view point at Goljung Pass, from where views of Langtang and Kyirong (China) can be seen. Visitors can watch Syabru, Mane and other local dances at Goljung and Gatlang.

The villages also sell handicraft items like traditional caps, mufflers and other things. In the cold weather of Rasuwa, tourists can enjoy a hot bath in the healing hot water springs at Tatopani before reaching Nagthali. Visits to monasteries and houses adorned with rich wood carvings at Thuman are other highlights of the trip.

Trekkers can enjoy home stay accommodation in Briddim village. The villagers provide lodging and fooding in their houses on a rotational basis. The host family provides clean beds, toilet and a family dining room. Trekking gear is also available for those interested in walking to nearby Gotheghang and Pangsang.

Briddim is a Tibetan Buddhist village. It is located at an elevation of 2,229 m in the bosom of Langtang Himal. Most of the village’s 43 houses are made of stone and have roofs of slate.

Travelers stay with the host family, eating traditional food and sleeping in their home. The menu usually consists of rice, Tibetan bread, syakpa (Sherpa stew), potato, Tibetan tea and Briddim wine. Visitors can also observe the local rituals and cultural practices with the host family and go on village walks to see the lifestyle and customs of the local residents. In the evening, the local people put on traditional costumes and perform dances in honor of the visitors.

The local inhabitants are Tamangs. Their culture is largely marked by Tibetan influences. Briddim is a living museum reflecting traditional Tamang culture and lifestyle. The major festivals celebrated in the village are Dawa Dangbo Chhiju (in February), Chuwa Chhiju (November), Yarsang (early June), Dukpa Chhiju (August) and Lhosar (February). Syabru and Mane dances are performed during festive occasions. The Tamangs engage in rearing livestock, farming and trading with Kyirong.
(NTB)
FACTFILE

• Name of trek: Tamang Heritage Trail
• Trek length: Eight days
• The route: Syaphrubesi - Goljung - Gatlang - Chilime - Tatopani - Rasuwagadhi - Briddim - Syaphrubesi
• Getting there: Drive from Kathmandu to Syaphrubesi (nine hours, 132 km)
• Accommodation: Home stay, camping, lodges
• Season: Throughout the year except July-August (rainy)